Forced cooling

No I gave up on that because it was too big, this is from a Honda CB750 FZ 1992 - 98 longer and wider than OEM.
Hoses will be a problem because they need to be on the outside, so I am making shiny ones :giggle:
 

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I bit the bullet and ordered one of those SPAL fan...

It should arrive beginning of February... I'll keep you posted on the progress...
 
The terminology may be in need of realignment :unsure:
Was that the UCE Bullet, be careful you don't "Bite off more than you can chew:ROFLMAO:
 
The terminology may be in need of realignment :unsure:
Was that the UCE Bullet, be careful you don't "Bite off more than you can chew:ROFLMAO:
This is not time to bite that "bullet" yet, but one day I'll buy myself a C5 500 classic chrome, for no other reason than staring at it parked in my garage! :cool:
 
Got one for sale - one of the few 500 UCE they made with carburetor (same as the Hima btw.)
 
Back to the Topic!

Oil line from engine to Cooler this is the one from near the Oil filter housing
Looks a bit Twisted,, Because it is!:oops:
Pretty poor workmanship, I know exactly how it has happened as Hydraulics is a Trade I worked in. Even had my own business and would have been ashamed of myself if I produced it.:sick:
This hose was made with incorrect orientation then Twisted to fit causing the Hose to Collapse.
It may be a "one off" but more than likely not, if you can stuff it up once then your probably likely to keep doing the same thing.
Looks bad enough with the rubber cover ( covered because it is not stainless steel !) and worse when the cover is removed.
I have heard on ADV forum long back ( before they Tossed me !) of someone else complaining of a damaged oil cooler line.
Un covered the damage is more obvious.
 

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And to add fuel to the Fire, I checked my other Himalayan and it has the same "Twisted" hose which makes me sure they did these in a Jig and the whole lot are Twisted,

Maybe this is a good thing! slowing the oil flow down before it gets to the Cooler:sneaky: saves fitting an Expensive Valve:confused:

Doubtful but;)

Will need to amend that 3D model when you get it:D
 
Banjos need cutting from the Lines and welding to 9/16 JIC nipples that I have prepared.
I priced the Flux and Silver solder to do the job, 2 sticks of solder $44 Flux another 14 dollars and of course an Oxy Acetiline set with bottles etc.
So not a cheap exercise. 🥸
 
Peter it seems to me that even 'just' replacing the Oil Lines would improve the cooling capacity of our bikes!? I'd Still go for the Forced Cooling when the option arrives, but I'll have my eyes out for an outfit that can make these Hydraulic Hoses too...
 
Update on the Hoses, I cut ( destroyed!) both tonight and came to the conclusion that I would be better off with Banjo to JIC adaptors so ordered these.
They will fit the Hose ends I have already purchased, whether they fit the M14 banjos or not, well time will tell :LOL:


EDIT, seems I couldnt wait so made one instead, this could be impatience or some other order :unsure:
 

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Back to the Topic!

Oil line from engine to Cooler this is the one from near the Oil filter housing
Looks a bit Twisted,, Because it is!:oops:
Pretty poor workmanship, I know exactly how it has happened as Hydraulics is a Trade I worked in. Even had my own business and would have been ashamed of myself if I produced it.:sick:
This hose was made with incorrect orientation then Twisted to fit causing the Hose to Collapse.
It may be a "one off" but more than likely not, if you can stuff it up once then your probably likely to keep doing the same thing.
Looks bad enough with the rubber cover ( covered because it is not stainless steel !) and worse when the cover is removed.
I have heard on ADV forum long back ( before they Tossed me !) of someone else complaining of a damaged oil cooler line.
Un covered the damage is more obvious.
I looked up mine...

Well the trademark is there! Well done RE, it keeps the production "consistent"... :sick::sick::sick:
 
Engine ends done!
Job not finished yet and not in time to do a Dyno with it ;)

I am using the other bike as both a donor and model and only have one butt, as my wife keeps telling me.
Mounting was usual bodge, a piece of 25x3mm ali drilled not that well to take the frame positions of the "previous" cooler and hold the new you beaut 50% bigger cooler.
Not being drilled that well enabled me to "turn it over" and get a better fit 😎
This unit is made with the Fins being arranged at an Angle so the Inclination is probably important, I worked that out by myself:) by holding it up to the Sun:LOL:
Last pic is the last fitting to be welded, this welding was something I did 30 years ago and Rusty dont cover it!
I need Practice:giggle: and have another bike! poor bike.

The first pic shows weld on fitting supplied and welded at a Local shop. couldnt believe the price $12.80:love: and I invested over $50 in solder and flux:(
 

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Test ride this morning on my "cooler than yours" Himalayan, got back and noticed my boot was shiny, sure enough some idiot forgot to tighten up a hose end :giggle: all sorted now, bought back memories of my old BSA A65T.
 

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I looked at the Oil Cooler on the 650 Continental today; Big! They placed it High and Center Mass on the Frame, in front of the Tank, so no outboard fitment like our Himalayan's. Both of the Hoses run out of the Bottom. The Electricity was out at the workshop so no lights and I couldn't see much of how they had it mounted, nor was I able to think of how we might be able to fit one onto our bikes, but I'd 'assume' that at least the Banjo Fittings could be a match, which would make things easier in this department.
Bob
 
Too big I think, in the next few weeks I'll try to get my bike to the Wrecker and show it to them, perhaps they will come up with something.
Banjo fittings should be good, I have a couple coming that are 1/4 BSPP, which Im hoping will be close enough to take the 14mm bolts used.
 
According the Technicians, the. hose end was intentionally left loose so as to bleed the air out ;)
 
My experience with engine temperature points to only one situation where the engine comes to near 120C - that is VERY slow stop and go traffic in a hot ambient temperature above 40C like we have here in Indian summers. I never came close to 120 when riding fast on a highway.
In that light a bigger oil cooler makes no sense as it would not be cooling significantly better in slow traffic - whereas a fan would. So adding 1 or even 2 fans to the exisiting cooler - even very unsophisticated with just a switch at the handle bar (needs oil temp instrument though) would suffice. If anyone figures out how to implement automatic switching on via the ECU/head temp sensor that would be a plus and I would definitely be interested but on my own I do not have the technical knowledge to figure that out by myself.
 
A thermo switch similar to these could drive a fan, I have used this type before albeit on a water radiator,
Flow rate of the oil as well as the flow of air would be important to consider.
Highest Temp I have seen recently was 134C on the ECT read out dont know if that is too hot.
 

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