Red box installation
- Thread starter stormy
- Start date
Patrick was one of the first to order the red box when it came out but I had like 10 or so in stock, all from the same shipment and none so far have been returned to me with this error. I would still love @Sasa to have a look before you send it back to India 
That Honda entry means nothing. all red boxes have it. its lazyness on the side of the importer. he deemed it unimportant to change that - and he is right, it has no technical influence - but a psychological one...
That Honda entry means nothing. all red boxes have it. its lazyness on the side of the importer. he deemed it unimportant to change that - and he is right, it has no technical influence - but a psychological one...
I am not speaking about the Honda entry but about the firmware version 9.08 that also appear in the message error .
Message is :
An unhandled exception occurred in your application. If you click continue, the application will ignore this error, and try to continue. If you click exit, the application will stop.
Conversion of string "9.08" to "single" is not valid
Message is :
An unhandled exception occurred in your application. If you click continue, the application will ignore this error, and try to continue. If you click exit, the application will stop.
Conversion of string "9.08" to "single" is not valid
call me crazy - but IMO that points towards a LANGUAGE issue. and what happens if you just click "continue" at this point?
@stormy the box have all firmware 9.08 if memory serves. You could send the box to me and I can program it for you, BUT at a certain point you would need to calibrate the throttle, either manually or with the throttle learn procedure and you’d be stuck again!
Now if you know the minimum and maximum TPS voltage values I could insert them manually.
@sam2019 when you reset the box the map is good for a Honda crf150. Been there done that, just out of curiosity. Fuel values are up to 20% leaner than a normal map for the 477, good luck running a 500 with that…
Anyhow @stormy I see now you are able to connect to the rb when installed on the bike!
If that is the case, with the RB connected to the bike, turn the ignition key (not the engine!) and read the voltage value in the lowermost part of the throttle gauge. Then twist the throttle completely open and reread the value. These two values are tps voltage min and tps voltage max, if you can retrieve these two values I can program the RB for you.
If that is the case, with the RB connected to the bike, turn the ignition key (not the engine!) and read the voltage value in the lowermost part of the throttle gauge. Then twist the throttle completely open and reread the value. These two values are tps voltage min and tps voltage max, if you can retrieve these two values I can program the RB for you.
@sam2019 It's the same horse mouth that swears the MAP sensor is working.
Trust me, they don't have a clue.
Upon resetting the RB, all sensor calibration values will reset to be unusable or, better say, unusable on the Himalayan. Probably good for a CRF150 though.
Blacklisted was the first to discover this about the ECT sensor (back in the days when I wasn't on the game yet) and he and Peter corrected that. Later Peter helped me correcting the AFR sensor calibration. Both of them were off, although the ECT was more important because with a wrong reading the RB would think the engine was always cold, applying an unnecessary correction to fuel and timing map.
You can test it for yourself by uploading the V5 and go to sensor voltage tab, then resetting the unit and see how values changes.
This goes for all the other tabs, particularly for the IGN time tab, which was the one I found guilty for the overheating problems some people were experiencing at the very beginning of the RB story.
This is the reason why I stress upon the importance to load the whole file into the RB, not one table at the time.
@stormy my system works well and so far I've programmed more than a RB on it, so I have a proven platform.
If for any reason that doesn't work it might be the case that something is wrong with the RB itself.
If you retrieve the TPS values we can give it a shot.
Probably plenty of experience in other racing aspects, not on the RB it seems...horses, what can you expect
i kinda expected them to have at least rudimentary insight, bc of the RACING in their name i guess…
I have experienced a fault previously where my bike goes very rich like 10 or even less ( gauge stops at 10!) and dies under 3500 ( not an exact figure as Im concentrating on other things ! ) today after a run down the Hwy it stalled at a set of lights Id been idling for less than a Minute, I hit the starter it fired up didnt idle and died, hit it again kept up the revs and blasted off from the lights with it dying in every gear I used unless I kept up the revs, it was lite traffic luckily but this was like riding a Kangaroo except I could keep a straight line.
It started to get a little less worse ( couldnt say it got better!) within a couple of Kms and the AFR gauge was able to read 11s again not an exact figure, by the time I got closer to Home it was running okay again and pulled into the driveway like nothing happened.
Same sort of thing happened a few weeks back at the beginning of a return run up the Freeway, started running rich I held it at 100kph ( speed limit on the Freeway) for 10 ks or so and it came good again so I think if one can persist it goes away
But the good news is that I think I have introduced this problem to the 443 by transplanting parts from the 500 which exhibited the symptoms first.
Just have to work out which part, it could be the RB but I dont think so, unfortunately I have 3 RB's that I have been using and they are all the same colour and look the same as well!
I cant be sure but I thought the 443 RB went on the 500 which would indicate the 500 RB went on the 443 but the RB not in use is actually marked with the 443's rego number?
A Setting problem most likely, I have been playing around with them
It started to get a little less worse ( couldnt say it got better!) within a couple of Kms and the AFR gauge was able to read 11s again not an exact figure, by the time I got closer to Home it was running okay again and pulled into the driveway like nothing happened.
Same sort of thing happened a few weeks back at the beginning of a return run up the Freeway, started running rich I held it at 100kph ( speed limit on the Freeway) for 10 ks or so and it came good again so I think if one can persist it goes away
But the good news is that I think I have introduced this problem to the 443 by transplanting parts from the 500 which exhibited the symptoms first.
Just have to work out which part
, it could be the RB but I dont think so, unfortunately I have 3 RB's that I have been using and they are all the same colour and look the same as well!I cant be sure but I thought the 443 RB went on the 500 which would indicate the 500 RB went on the 443 but the RB not in use is actually marked with the 443's rego number?
A Setting problem most likely, I have been playing around with them
I remember you mentioning swapping also the RB, at least from the 443 to the 500, not sure if you did also the vice versa!
But that problem you faced it last time on the 500, correct?
In that case it might be related to the RB settings.
Another possible suspect would be a faulty or fouled injector that needs some cleaning!
But that problem you faced it last time on the 500, correct?
In that case it might be related to the RB settings.
Another possible suspect would be a faulty or fouled injector that needs some cleaning!
