Bs6 euro 5 himalayan + powertronic v4

Alisson911 said:
Anyone has anymore DIY tips?
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The TPS is located in the TB/ECU combo in EUro5 bikes. It is inaccessible to piggyback ECUs which is one of the major flaws of the E5 version (all bikes, not just the Hima).
In the E4 versions there where various options to deal with stalling all of those are no longer available thanx to idiotic emission laws.

What I heard (not tried myself) helps is adding the FuelX Pro which of course is not free. Or the PT4, even more expensive and you have to know how to do mapping.

Depending on location, fuel quality and the km run (tell us more about your bike) it could also be a dirty fuel filter, a weak fuel pump motor or dirt in the TB to name a few reasons. Error like these suck.
 
Dool said:
Can you take a photo of the throttle body from the left side?
Some south American delivered bikes are sold as euro 5 but use the euro 4 throttle body.
Hoping to identify the TPS .
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I live in Brazil, sea level city, already tried to find the FuelX Pro around but no luck. Only older models for the BS4.
Brazilian fuel is known to be of bad quality, I only fill in ``trustable`` gas stations and the more refined fuel, unfortunately even with the high octane gas the bike also stalls. My bike have 9800km in its odometer. All the services were made by time interval in the Dealership to not void the warranty. I bought the bike in 13/April/2023, the first stall was on 20/July/2023 with merely 2000km ridden, it was during a low speed turn on 2 gear with the clutch fully engaged, the stalled with wheels rolling about 15km/h. The bike has fallen a few times during trails but no damage to the engine (engine guards) and most of the falls was due to stalling or slipping in sand/gravel.
sam2019 said:
The TPS is located in the TB/ECU combo in EUro5 bikes. It is inaccessible to piggyback ECUs which is one of the major flaws of the E5 version (all bikes, not just the Hima).
In the E4 versions there where various options to deal with stalling all of those are no longer available thanx to idiotic emission laws.

What I heard (not tried myself) helps is adding the FuelX Pro which of course is not free. Or the PT4, even more expensive and you have to know how to do mapping.

Depending on location, fuel quality and the km run (tell us more about your bike) it could also be a dirty fuel filter, a weak fuel pump motor or dirt in the TB to name a few reasons. Error like these suck.
Click to expand...
 
Definitely a Euro 5 then, if it's not something like tight tappets then perhaps the decomp on the Cam is failing?
Can you connect to OBD11 to see if any faults are recorded.
 
With stalling you mean the engine cuts out OR do you also experience electrical failure, e.g. the lights in the instrument panel turn dark?
I had that in one of my bikes and the reason was a faulty ignition lock. This kind of stalling can happen in any speed, not just in low speed.

If the electric system is not affected I would systematically exchange parts that are the possible culprits, starting with the cable to the spark plug, ignition coil, then the fuel pump, then the TB/ECU combo. As you are still in warranty your dealer should supply these parts IMO.
 
I have not been so unlucky as to come across the combined ECT/TB in the flesh.
But assuming it has an adjustable physical stop on the throttle wheel on that ecu/tb you may be able to lift the idle speed a little ,if it is anything like the older throttle bodies just a part of a turn is enough.
 
:cool: I only had to make the smallest adjustment there to get a problem sorted, be careful.
 
sam2019 said:
With stalling you mean the engine cuts out OR do you also experience electrical failure, e.g. the lights in the instrument panel turn dark?
I had that in one of my bikes and the reason was a faulty ignition lock. This kind of stalling can happen in any speed, not just in low speed.

If the electric system is not affected I would systematically exchange parts that are the possible culprits, starting with the cable to the spark plug, ignition coil, then the fuel pump, then the TB/ECU combo. As you are still in warranty your dealer should supply these parts IMO.
Click to expand...
No electrical failure. Sometimes I even ride in low speed with the ignition button pressed. The engine stalls and turns on in a second.
Dool said:
Definitely a Euro 5 then, if it's not something like tight tappets then perhaps the decomp on the Cam is failing?
Can you connect to OBD11 to see if any faults are recorded.
Click to expand...
The mechanic of the Royal Dealership now says it is possibly it, but it took 5 travels to the workshop with even 30 days of availabitly to ride and test the motorbike, while saying that it has no problem or it has been fixed. I completely lost my trust with them. They now ask for more 30 days of the bike stopped at the workshop to open the engine, send pictures to India, get the warranty approved to them work on the compression of the Cam.
Unfortunately the bike is my only veicule and right now I can't leave it in the workshop for so long.
Dool said:
:cool: I only had to make the smallest adjustment there to get a problem sorted, be careful.
Click to expand...

You two are making me dream of fixing my bike HAHAHAHA.
Do you then suggests that I slightly rise up the adjustment of the throttle wheel to slightly increase the idle speed with needing to mess with the ECU? Maybe a quarter of turn into that cork? 1/2 turn?
 
Alisson911 said:
Sometimes I even ride in low speed with the ignition button pressed. The engine stalls and turns on in a second.
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Ha ha ha, this is funny, but also depressing ... don't know what to say. You got a lemon it seems.
If you are not a "hobby" mechanic yourself this is indeed a nightmare situation. I hope your work is not too far away and you have a bicycle !!!
 
It will only take a very small adjustment, mine has a torx head and using the key as a clock hand I turned 10 mins max:)
It was the difference between starting sometimes and starting always but only a small adjustment did it.
 
btw: what is the idle rpm with a cold and with a warm engine? It should be 1200rpm +- 100. If it has that value do not play with the ECU, then the fault lies elsewhere. If you think it could be the cam I have a used but 100% working cam that I could send you if you pay postage. However changing the cam is somewhat advanced work, although there are videos on YT showing how it is done.
 
Dool said:
It will only take a very small adjustment, mine has a torx head and using the key as a clock hand I turned 10 mins max:)
It was the difference between starting sometimes and starting always but only a small adjustment did it.
Click to expand...
I wished my bike was a Euro 4 BS4 I would have already fixed it myself.
I think I will give it a try on the cork of the throttle wheel, see what happens.
sam2019 said:
Ha ha ha, this is funny, but also depressing ... don't know what to say. You got a lemon it seems.
If you are not a "hobby" mechanic yourself this is indeed a nightmare situation. I hope your work is not too far away and you have a bicycle !!!
Click to expand...
Luckily for my daily job is only 2km, so it is walkable if necessary, but 2 weekends a month I travel 120km to the country for work, so not that walkable haha.
Yeah, I feel like a game of wack-a-mole, the mole being the bike stalling an me wacking the ignition button ahahhaha.
sam2019 said:
btw: what is the idle rpm with a cold and with a warm engine? It should be 1200rpm +- 100. If it has that value do not play with the ECU, then the fault lies elsewhere. If you think it could be the cam I have a used but 100% working cam that I could send you if you pay postage. However changing the cam is somewhat advanced work, although there are videos on YT showing how it is done.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the offer but my bike is still under warranty so in the event of me not fixing it, later on I will have to make time to leave it at the dealership
 
Dool said:
What is the idle speed?
Cold and Hot.
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The RPM stays around 1250 cold. Hot it depends.
Sometimes holds steady at 1250 and sometimes oscillating a lot from 1000 to 1400, that's when I now the bike is prone to suddenly stalling.

And I can't ride it with just idle speed. Like if I'm in a flat road, 1st gear and just let the engine carry away.... It can't. With choke and stall in a few moments.
I used to do this in light trails to train balance on the bike without my hands on the bars.
 
I have no experience with your type of throttle body, but I would still be inclined to adjust up the idle stop position on the throttle cable wheel so that the butterfly valve is slightly more open.
 
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