BS6 - Cutting off ...

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sam2019

sam2019

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A year ago I purchased a BS6. I drove it for a brief while and noticed that it would cut off when gearing down to first and pulling the clutch. sometimes when cold, then again when hot. I did not give it much thought as plans where in place to upgrade the bike A LOT and I was sure somehow this nuisance would disappear in the process.

Well, we got everything done except the Powertronic which was sold out for this model so it was parked for almost 6 month in a garage bc driving a 411 when you have a few 477 in the stable aint much fun.

Then a lone PT - the V3 for the BS6 model 2022 - was located in an obscure online shop and the odyssey to get the map for it to fit the now fully modded 477 (HT cam. powerage exhaust, open air filter, fuelx pro) began. With the help of the forum we reached quite the power in the end - comparable to the carby versions we have, but the cutting out never went away.
Then we started exchanging the relevant parts for new ones: TB plus ECU, injector, O2 sensor, fuelpump, the relays, spark plug (NGK), - cutting off did not change a bit.
Step by step we took the extras off the bike to encircle the problem - or so we thought - we stripped the bike down to the STOCK components with the exception of the exhaust. Even a new 411 cylinder was installed. Still cutting off happened
I spent half a day with SaSa in the end trying to convince the PT to fix that problem - no luck.
Now the bike is with the dealership and if they cant fix it - there is still warranty on it - maybe I get a new one :cool:
 
Today we went uphill with the BS6, it would cut out the normal rate in the "lowlands" - which means every 5-10 stops or slow-downs. But once we reached the peak, and its maybe 1200m max, it would cut out ALL THE TIME, literally every time I pull the clutch the engine goes down to 1000rpm, then a few seconds later, stops. Or stops right away without waiting at the 1000rpm mark. I am totally confused as to what the connection could be. Engine temp was around 70C - so not too high. I was going with a group of "learners" so we where relatively slow, 30-40kmh - uphill.

any idea what the boondoggle is going on here?
 
What is the Idle set at?
Is there a Switch on the Clutch Lever?
 
Its a BS6! no idle screw and no lever.
 
And you still have the Free flowing Exhaust fitted so it is not "back to Stock" , so its running leaner than a stock Bs6, so lean that it cant handle dropping from Revs back to an Idle of , How many Revs ?.
 
when you go UP the air gets THINNER so the mix gets RICHER. The last thing we did not exchange is the Thermo sensor in the head. That I will try tomorrow.
 
If it is the same as a Bs4 sensor it with shut down the Engine at about or after the same Temperature as it takes to destroy a Forged Piston, its not an Intermittent thing :)

So the Idle speed is a Secret:unsure:
 
there is no one idle speed. as mentioned above when I pull the clutch it idles at 1800, then 1 or 2 seconds later falls to 1000-900 for a moment, then shuts down. After restart it idles at 1200-1300, so normal. It never shuts down twice in a row i.e. after restart. As mentioned it does this 100% all the time when we went up to 1200m, but reverted back to the irregular shut off when we returned to lower altitudes.
 
This never happened to my my stock 2019, it began happening when big bore kit was installed. Almost the same as Sam's. Riding in 3rd gear, down to 2nd and then if I pull in the clutch and get down to 1st: OUT. During this time I have learnt to always keep some throttle on and to go to neutral instead of 1st if it's not really needed. Idle when cold is at 1240+- but this always happens as the above described and almost all times when going downhill.
 
Well Sam seems to have proven it is not because of the 477 kit, have you tried shifting without the Clutch ? sound silly perhaps but pulling in the Clutch is almost a common denominator here. I would diconnect/bypass any stupid switch on the system even the Side Stand switch so as to eliminate them.
Your using the Red Box I assume as am I and this does not happen to either my 443 or my 477.
I would be inclined ( pun intended! ;) ) to take a look at the little electronic unit that is in front and above the Ignition Coil, I believe it can shut down the Engine when you Fall Off and take the Wrong Inclination ie upside down.
 
Its a bs6 so no red box.
Switches have all been disabled
I cant avoid the clutch in slow traffic
I have to find that inclination switch but i think Hima does not have it bc i fell and engine continued to rev.
 
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A look at the wiring diagram could be helpful, could be Classified information though:cool:
 
sam2019 said:
Its a bs6 so no red box.
Switches have all been disabled
I cant avoid the clutch in slow traffic
I have to find that inclination switch but i think Hima does not have it bc i fell and engine continued to rev.
Click to expand...
This is also my case (with the exception of the look at switches/sensors). Most of weekly driving is on traffic too. My BS4 does not cut off when tipped, last weekend took handlebar bending fall and it kept throwing mud at the guy in the back šŸ˜
 
I am just now editing a video from a one hour trip today (mountain roads) where I managed to cut off 16 (!!) times.
hold your breaths! Oscar material coming :cool::LOL::ninja:
 
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OK, I have not published this on the HT channel but on my "private" channel to avoid trouble for my trusted RE workshop. I trust those guys who have been very helpful in the past - However, I don't trust RE as company much. Too many shenanigans in the past...

 
sam2019 said:
Nope, very public, d/l from the Internet:

BS6/Euro5 electrical schematics

BS6/Euro5 electrical schematics
forum.himalayan-tools.com
Click to expand...
This is, the unit!
3 wires Orange, Black and white and Grey and white

It brings up a Engine light could not try running it because,,, Thead Was Off.
16700766981547598392007562916072.jpg
 
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btw: the last thing we tried was the temperture sensor in the head and the clutch switch - both obviously with zero effect.
 
The bike is now with the Big Boss of our RE workshop. He thinks he can "fix it". I have my doubts :rolleyes:
On Tuesday I get the bike back and most likely nothing will have changed. And I need the bike for riding (its the only one I can use at the moment - one is in parts waiting fore a crank, the other is on parts waiting for a frame). I plan to put the 477 kit on it again but without the cam for now.

Question:
If I leave the PT disconnected that would mean the bike would run super lean only on the stock ECU - and if the cut-outs are caused by lean run they should become more frequent - is that right? If nothing changes in the frequency of the cut-outs it is not rooted in anything the ECU does - right? Nor will I be able to fix it with the PT and the "right map" or adding a FuelX Pro on level 10.
 
Thats more than 1 question . with the PT disconnected you are on the Stock Map so theoretically it should run as the factory intended.
Have you tried Fuel Pro this time to fix it?
 
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