taus90
Prolific Member
did you try installing on your himalayan bs6. Where are you located?
Just ordered a Scram 440 (Scram 440 discussion)
- Thread starter sam2019
- Start date
you have PM
500cc installed, engine runs a little bit rougher which is to be expected. engine light is on and torque can not erase the fault code. AI tells me the codes on the 440 are not standard so I have to visit the shop to get it done. will do the test ride to determine if I need fuelx pro+ or not.
The engine body did not need any widening (compared to the Hima which does). We modified the piston to have the same indention depth as the original 440 piston. All should be well.
The engine body did not need any widening (compared to the Hima which does). We modified the piston to have the same indention depth as the original 440 piston. All should be well.
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Gemini fix for the ODB2/Torque fault code erasure: I wonder how much is hallucination LOL 
This guide is tailored specifically for the Royal Enfield Scram 440 (Euro 5+) to fix the "garbage data" (wrong readings) and the "failed erase" issues common with generic Bluetooth scanners.
This guide is tailored specifically for the Royal Enfield Scram 440 (Euro 5+) to fix the "garbage data" (wrong readings) and the "failed erase" issues common with generic Bluetooth scanners.
Scram 440 Torque Pro Workshop Guide
1. Fix the Connection (Protocol)
Generic "Automatic" settings often fail to send the "Clear" command.- Settings > OBD2 Adapter Settings > Preferred OBD2 Protocol.
- Change to: ISO 15765-4 CAN (11bit, 500k baud).
- Disable "Faster Communication" (in the same menu) to prevent the ECU from rejecting commands due to timing lag.
2. Add Accurate Data (Custom PIDs)
PID stands for Parameter ID (the ECU's internal address for data). Use these settings to stop getting "ghost" readings like fake High Oil Temp:- Go to: Settings > Manage extra PIDs/Sensors > Add custom PID.
- PID: 221020
- Long Name: RE Oil Temp (440)
- Equation: A-40
- Unit Type: °C (or °F)
- OBD Header: 7E0 (Forces communication with the Engine Module)
3. The "Deep Clear" Sequence
The Scram 440 ECU often ignores "Clear" commands while the engine is running or the system is fully powered. Follow this exact sequence:- Ignition ON / Kill Switch to RUN (Engine OFF).
- Open Fault Codes in Torque Pro.
- Tap Clear logged faults.
- The Trigger: The moment the app says "Sent" or "Cleared," immediately turn the physical Key to OFF.
- Wait 60 seconds (you may hear the ECU relay click).
- Turn the Key back ON and start the engine.
4. Troubleshooting "Hard Faults"
If the codes return instantly after the Deep Clear, it’s a hardware issue, not a scanner error:- "System Voltage Low": Check the negative battery terminal and the frame ground bolt. A loose ground causes a voltage drop at the ECU even if the battery reads 14V.
- "Oil Temp High": If the custom PID above still reads over 150°C on a cold engine, the Engine Temp Sensor (near the spark plug) is likely disconnected or the wire is pinched.
First impression (just 30km) - great punch, definitely a lot more than the native 440 and maybe just a bit short of the 500 carby I had.
I will go shanty for 500km, then let you know what the highway says. It will not be like the Guerrilla but I will still be able to go in 3rd or 4th gear everywhere and not break my foot on the gear switch lever. I have put the Guerrilla up for sale now - this bike is so much more fun to ride.
So far zero knocking, compression says 200 psi (cheap chinese gauge so plus minus 10) - and absolute smooth acceleration - so no fuelx either.
If I find the time I will add the tacho and the AF meter sent to me by @Dool.
I will go shanty for 500km, then let you know what the highway says. It will not be like the Guerrilla but I will still be able to go in 3rd or 4th gear everywhere and not break my foot on the gear switch lever. I have put the Guerrilla up for sale now - this bike is so much more fun to ride.
So far zero knocking, compression says 200 psi (cheap chinese gauge so plus minus 10) - and absolute smooth acceleration - so no fuelx either.
If I find the time I will add the tacho and the AF meter sent to me by @Dool.
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I run 95 where I can get it. but i will fill up once to test if the lousy standard fuel we get here might be enough.
Yes, AFR is great to have but right now I want a Tacho more urgently, and its easier to put on. I need to get that bolt that goes into the bent pipe first, then I can think about attaching the rest of the AFR.
In my head? while I ride? no sir LOL
Ultimately what the AFR tells me I can hear (knocking or not) and measure (too much fuel when filling up). The rest are details.
I do not need a tacho, I just think a bike should have one - like a kickstart ....
I only use full synthetic - on all of my bikes from day one.