My 477 Build thread

CptCaveman

CptCaveman

Developer
Developer
477 Owner
Hi folks, just creating a single thread for my build questions, to keep the other threads noise free.

I am having difficulting getting the new cylinder barrel to seat properly. It seems stuck with 5mm left to go. It seems to be held up in the middle somewhere. I wondering if it's because the new cylinder barrel doesn't have this curved cut out as the original (pictured below). My barrel was machined fully straight without this cutout?
 

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CptCaveman said:
I wondering if it's because the new cylinder barrel doesn't have this curved cut out
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nope, none of our liners, not the Hima ones and not the j-engine ones have this cut out.
can you measure the total length of both for comparison?
It is hard to imagine that this is an issue as we use the same liner since ages, but then again I am not present when the work is done and there is always the possibility of someone getting creative without informing me.
I will inquire with the workshop.
 
The cut away is ( although it looks for crank clearance) to allow the piston pin to be assembled with the piston assy into the cylinder ie pin is less that half way in so you van drip the whole piston and barrel assy onto the con rod.
I always cut away a small half moon slightly bigger than the pin circumference so it is a one man job.
 

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OK, so valve seats done after "they'll be ready next week" for 6 weeks... sigh...

Red box installed... V6 map loaded, throttle relearned....

Took a few goes to get it started., but she's idling nicely... too late to take her for a spin now, so it'll have to be tomorrow.... but quite excited!
 
Hi all,

So I'm 400km in and things seem to be fine. Keeping under 3000rpm as per guidance but it's a little annoying going 60km/h.

I have a small oil leak from the bolts on the left side which seems pretty common... I've ordered new copper washers.

I had to fill up after 350km... that seems low... but when I filled up, only 10L went in... so I presume the quoted 450L is when you use the full 15L capacity? That would explain things if so?
 
Bolts on the head or the barrel?
What Head gasket was used?
 
Dool said:
Bolts on the head or the barrel?
What Head gasket was used?
Click to expand...
One of the upper ones on the side - 6mm with 1.5mm thick copper washers... I'll take a picture later. I used the head gasket that came with the kit... it had some shavings that I sanded gently (interior, not surface). My bike only has 6000km on it and to be honest, the gasket that I took off looked in better condition and perhaps I should have reused it.
 
The gasket I took off was shiny bare metal, but the gasket in the kit that I used was black with some of the coating coming off/ worn off. Was also slightly warped (but not bent)
 
CptCaveman said:
the gasket that I took off looked in better condition and perhaps I should have reused it.
Click to expand...
While you can re use those gaskets and we have even done it multiple times, the original will be too small on the inside and you will hear a nasty sound when trying that. In our video we had used a 410 gasket for a 500 set and even then we had to redo the work with the correct size gasket. That it looks a bit edgy is irrelevant except for cosmetics.
 
CptCaveman said:
The gasket I took off was shiny bare metal, but the gasket in the kit that I used was black with some of the coating coming off/ worn off. Was also slightly warped (but not bent)
Click to expand...
We get various gaskets from RE, some are blanc, some black.
 
sam2019 said:
While you can re use those gaskets and we have even done it multiple times, the original will be too small on the inside and you will hear a nasty sound when trying that. In our video we had used a 410 gasket for a 500 set and even then we had to redo the work with the correct size gasket. That it looks a bit edgy is irrelevant except for cosmetics.
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Ah, of course! Anyway, no reason to think it's leaking
 
The "fault" is not present in the J models as the design has changed.
I found that Anaerobic sealant works as well as new copper washers.
 
Hey folks,

I'm 650kms in... so far so good... now I can ride at 80km/h... happy days.

One thing that hasn't changed over time is that when I start the bike it will run for just a second or two and die. If I start, give it a little throttle for say 2 or 3 seconds and then let it idle, no problem. It's a little annoying... what should I do, if anything?
 
Starting problems up to euro4/Bs4 were mostly because of the throttle body design that did not incorporate a stepper motor to control cold idle, from my experience any rate.
 
Hold it at high idle when it starts, like 1500rpm
 
CptCaveman said:
Hey folks,

I'm 650kms in... so far so good... now I can ride at 80km/h... happy days.

One thing that hasn't changed over time is that when I start the bike it will run for just a second or two and die. If I start, give it a little throttle for say 2 or 3 seconds and then let it idle, no problem. It's a little annoying... what should I do, if anything?
Click to expand...
I have been trying to solve this issue for a long time, I have had quite good improvements by modifying Sasa's map between 500-2000 RPM at idle at VE, INJ and IGN Degrees, and the Stepper.

I believe part of the problem (or the closing of the problem itself hopefully) is the strength of the first start. If you do not run a very high CAA battery, the voltage needed to create a strong spark and therefore a sustained first transition is not enough. My bike has had this issue since I first installed the 477, 35000+ km ago.

I am currently working on a mod (discussed in this forum as well) that replaces the starting solenoid with one that allows the using of thicker cables, AWG 8 is what was recommended. This mod + the mods done via red box are expected to have a strong start that does not die.
 
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