Booster Plug forgotten on 477

thony

Developer
Developer
477 Owner
Hey guys, I had installed this device on my stock bike before 477. It reads:

"The BoosterPlug fuel injection tuning kit is designed to eliminate the usual fuel injection problems that haunts all modern motorcycles. The too lean air/fuel mixture on the standard bike will make idle and low speed running weak, and the throttle action will be horribly on/off like. The small controlled fuel enrichment with the BoosterPlug will solve the common fuel injection problems and make your motorcycle easier and safer to ride."

On stock it had somewhat improved the experience, mostly at lower gears/rpms but what are your thoughts on keeping it on the 477? I can just remove it for a test but what do you think?
 
I would think is fully superfluous with a good red box map.
 
Hey guys, I had installed this device on my stock bike before 477. It reads:

"The BoosterPlug fuel injection tuning kit is designed to eliminate the usual fuel injection problems that haunts all modern motorcycles. The too lean air/fuel mixture on the standard bike will make idle and low speed running weak, and the throttle action will be horribly on/off like. The small controlled fuel enrichment with the BoosterPlug will solve the common fuel injection problems and make your motorcycle easier and safer to ride."

On stock it had somewhat improved the experience, mostly at lower gears/rpms but what are your thoughts on keeping it on the 477? I can just remove it for a test but what do you think?
I think it should Definately be Removed, It works by changing the Resistance in the IAT circuit, the Red Box does not need to be Bullshitted to like the stock ECU.
 
Something strange happened after removing booster plug. Bike went back to backfiring / flashing a lot. Running version 6 of experimental map had calmed backfiring down to almost cero but booster plug was on, removed it and literally was like when I ran the 4.4. Instructions on how to load a new map on red box state to manually set up and verify max and min tps value on the options tab, the low value for me first time I loaded map 6 was 0.58-59 and after the removal of booster plug this value changed to 0.60-0.61. Either at .60 or .61 cold start is now difficult - up to 3 times - (when booster plug was on and map 6 was loaded first time cold start problems were over, also backfiring (this is from another thread of mine)).

Could the removal of this gimmick cause such an evident difference?
 
@Sasa will be able to give a clearer picture, the resistance added by the BP to the IAT circuit is what you have observed, I dont understand how there is a connection between TPS and IAT :unsure:

Throttle Position Sensor= TPS Inlet Air Temperature= IAT
 
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I think its BP (booster plug) not PB (corrected that)
TPS is throttle position sensor
what is TPI and AIT?
 
@thony as Peter explained, the booster plug is an AIT cheat, meaning that it intercepts the signal coming from the air sensor temperature and changes it to trick the ECU. The ECU then thinks the air is much colder than it is in reality and compensates adding more fuel (colder air = denser air, you need more fuel to keep the same AFR programmed in the ECU).
With the Red box there is a table where you actually input how much fuel it has to had to the mixture when temperatures drops. The table is under the "Option" tab and it's called IAT compensating Injection.
It is somehow a crude way to do it, it should be a percentage but it's a fixed number. This doesn't work too well because adding a fixed number is good only for few lines of the INJ table, not for the whole table. After few e
As Sam mentioned, with a well tuned RED BOX there is no need for that.
HOWEVER, you mentioned that the bike was running better with it installed, hence it probably needs a little more fuel, specially at idle. I'm mentioning idle because you hear popping from the exhaust and had the occasional cutting off.
The new file I sent yestarday should address that (and probably ease the cold start) but I advise you to remove the secondary air injection on the head near the exhaust, and the vapour canister if you haven't already done that! The former is the biggest source of popping while the second is responsible for some cutting off at idle!
Try the new file and let me know! If it works better we could release it pubblicly!
 
@Sasa version 6 beta2 is working like a charm, the slight enrichment helped with popping indeed, it now not as regular a before. It still does it but I believe it is related to the fully open Delkevic terminal, AID kit from Hitcock's is on the way hoping it can help with this a bit more. Thanks for the input guys!
 
@Sasa version 6 beta2 is working like a charm, the slight enrichment helped with popping indeed, it now not as regular a before. It still does it but I believe it is related to the fully open Delkevic terminal, AID kit from Hitcock's is on the way hoping it can help with this a bit more. Thanks for the input guys!
What Kit are you getting.
 
I guess he refers to the Secondary Air Injection delete kit!
AID didn't sound right, I bought one from them, I am sure its changed now. on my second bike I just left the coil plugged in. and plugged the holes.
Pretty sure I've since replaced the coil with a resistor but could be dreaming. Replaced so many things I have lost count!
 
It´s this one Dool: https://accessories.hitchcocksmotorcycles.com/accessory-shop/Air-Injection-Delete-Kit/39248

It´s on the way. Should be somewhere in the Atlantic Ocean by now. Hope it helps with popping issues. BTW, got booster plug back on in an effort to improve cold starts (still up to 4 times trying) and even warmed up sometimes. Was surprised when it started just by the push of the button but then wanted to start it again after an hour (did a 15 km test drive and stopped for a beer) and battery seemed dead. There is something to this (bike´s at the bar).
 
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My main 2 problemas right now are first: very difficult cold starts that now that battery is fully discharged makes me think I have a generation problem, not sure if this can also lead to second: bike cutting off when going down a hill and have to pull clutch lever in to go from 3rd to 2nd or 1st gear (all this with lever in). Just dies. It's curious that I can go from 3-2-NEUTRAL and run the same road down and bike would not die.

I have removed side stand switch (stand got lost many trips ago), replaced clutch lever switch, cleaned contacts and even disconnected he switch (which seemed to help a bit but ended up dead cut off again). So, no idea at this point. Checked valve clearance and they are at tighty 0.08 and 0.23. Idle at 1240-1290.

Charging battery tomorrow.
 
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My main 2 problemas right now are first: very difficult cold starts that now that battery is fully discharged makes me think I have a generation problem, not sure if this can also lead to second: bike cutting off when going down a hill and have to pull clutch lever in to go from 3rd to 2nd or 1st gear (all this with lever in). Just dies. It's curious that I can go from 3-2-NEUTRAL and run the same road down and bike would not die.

I have removed side stand switch (stand got lost many trips ago), replaced clutch lever switch, cleaned contacts and even disconnected he switch (which seemed to help a bit but ended up dead cut off again). So, no idea at this point. Checked valve clearance and they are at tighty 0.08 and 0.23. Idle at 1240-1290.

Charging battery tomorrow.
Bike is telling you to have another Beer?
Strange things these Himalayans, I have made some changes to my starter system, LifePo batteries and shorter battery cables.
If you can, would you be able to read the Resistance in that adaptor from HMC?
 
Bike is telling you to have another Beer?
Strange things these Himalayans, I have made some changes to my starter system, LifePo batteries and shorter battery cables.
If you can, would you be able to read the Resistance in that adaptor from HMC?
How can I do this myself? What do I need?

These Himas are strange. Maybe connected to Skynet. Got booster plug back in to have to point of comparison between before, after and now. Battery just messed it all.
 
How can I do this myself? What do I need?

These Himas are strange. Maybe connected to Skynet. Got booster plug back in to have to point of comparison between before, after and now. Battery just messed it all.
You have a Multi Meter I assume, the kit comes with a Resistor its the black thing in the pic.
Did you check the battery Voltage? how was the Beer :)
 
Battery voltage is fine, just checked. Do have a meter. Will check when kit arrives and get it on. Heading to bar to pick up beer. I mean bike. Hell, both.
 
Done. Hima is running fine now. My Himalayan certainly likes tight valves, this has helped a lot with backfiring. The stator was causing the shutting downs. Please consider a check up if you are presenting similar symptoms. Good to know Sam's was throttle body.
 
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