I figured I would not make it to Leh before sunset and opted to stay overnight in Pang in one of the "hotels". it was the worst decision ever, not only could I hardly breathe, pang is at Elevation: 4521m / 14833feet - rats where rambling about in the walls all night long and of course no running water. however the road after Tanglang La, the 5300m pass, is in horrible condition and doing that at night could have ended badly.
I ended up at Tashi - my all time favorite mechanic in Leh who did oil and air filter, fixed a broken lamp attachment and washed it. all for 2500 INR. including the oil.