DUM DUM BULLET
- Thread starter Dool
- Start date
Let in more air that gets compressed as well?
Head is resized, Ports have been cleaned up and matched to the seats.
Combustion chamber is raised and Valves de shrouded, 2 base gaskets so a bit extra capacity.
Next week I will try to get it up Mt Greenmount in top gear holding the speed limit, couldn't do it last time I tried.
Head is resized, Ports have been cleaned up and matched to the seats.
Combustion chamber is raised and Valves de shrouded, 2 base gaskets so a bit extra capacity.
Next week I will try to get it up Mt Greenmount in top gear holding the speed limit, couldn't do it last time I tried.
Updating, the 411 kit and Cam plus Fx pro performs well, it goes up Greenmount hill in top gear and has plenty of power.
Had it almost Dynoed but the Computer connected to the Dyno failed to boot up.
Now after sitting on my Butt for 6 weeks in Thailand I am back home so today I decided to get it ready to Dyno.
I decided I am not using the "special tools" that RE recommends, for a couple of reasons.
Firstly the Cam Holding tool is a piece of crap and is not as accurate as it is supposed because the locating pin is tapered where it contacts the Cam and is loose in the hole of tool as well.
I will post up a Video to show what I mean shortly.
And the TDC tool requires the clutch cover to be removed so as to set TDC accurately whist the Cam Tool lets its down by not being accurate, so why drop the oil, change a Gasket and perhaps have trouble setting the Clutch throw out.
I also decided not use the HMC Cam nor my modded head, so this build will be ,411 kit, decat pipe and airfilter cover removed only.
Stock muffler as is done on Hitchcock's J series Dyno ( stock vs stock plus Cam )
This should give a good indication of what the capacity increase gives in extra power and also will be the Cheapest option for any J series Owner.
Before strip down I did a compression test seeing 165psi, that would be due to the material removed from the combustion chamber and the 2 base gaskets I used.
So now it is 2 base gaskets and stock head and Cam I am expecting 190psi or more.
Here is the tool I made to insert thru the spark plug hole, it will create a physical stop at an exact point then I will rotate the other way till it hits the stop ( then remove the tool from the plug hole)halve the numbers and that will be TDC , timing wheel( wheel was too big and was going to involve removing the Gear shifter so it is not a wheel anymore!) is mounted to a 17mm single hex socket that has been bashed to make it a tight fit.
I got cheap and reused the Head Gasket after painting it with Copper Gasket Paint, and this will be the 3rd time the Head bolts have been used so I may have a failure.
Start up tomorrow.
Had it almost Dynoed but the Computer connected to the Dyno failed to boot up.
Now after sitting on my Butt for 6 weeks in Thailand I am back home so today I decided to get it ready to Dyno.
I decided I am not using the "special tools" that RE recommends, for a couple of reasons.
Firstly the Cam Holding tool is a piece of crap and is not as accurate as it is supposed because the locating pin is tapered where it contacts the Cam and is loose in the hole of tool as well.
I will post up a Video to show what I mean shortly.
And the TDC tool requires the clutch cover to be removed so as to set TDC accurately whist the Cam Tool lets its down by not being accurate, so why drop the oil, change a Gasket and perhaps have trouble setting the Clutch throw out.
I also decided not use the HMC Cam nor my modded head, so this build will be ,411 kit, decat pipe and airfilter cover removed only.
Stock muffler as is done on Hitchcock's J series Dyno ( stock vs stock plus Cam )
This should give a good indication of what the capacity increase gives in extra power and also will be the Cheapest option for any J series Owner.
Before strip down I did a compression test seeing 165psi, that would be due to the material removed from the combustion chamber and the 2 base gaskets I used.
So now it is 2 base gaskets and stock head and Cam I am expecting 190psi or more.
Here is the tool I made to insert thru the spark plug hole, it will create a physical stop at an exact point then I will rotate the other way till it hits the stop ( then remove the tool from the plug hole)halve the numbers and that will be TDC , timing wheel( wheel was too big and was going to involve removing the Gear shifter so it is not a wheel anymore!) is mounted to a 17mm single hex socket that has been bashed to make it a tight fit.
I got cheap and reused the Head Gasket after painting it with Copper Gasket Paint, and this will be the 3rd time the Head bolts have been used so I may have a failure.
Start up tomorrow.
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No Greenmount hill test but a 100km run mostly at 100kph today.
Fx set at 3, ie turned off according to Race Dynamics plurb.
AFR Meter which is not calibrated shows 14's and low 13's, bike runs well and showed no signs of over heating, no clicking sounds after shut-down and no smell.
As for how much better it is opposed to stock is yet to be determined as the Dyno is not available at present, working on that!
So far I am impressed with this simple improvement in its simplicity and cost ratio, okay it involves removing the Head unlike a Cam swap but it is not a hard job.
Fx set at 3, ie turned off according to Race Dynamics plurb.
AFR Meter which is not calibrated shows 14's and low 13's, bike runs well and showed no signs of over heating, no clicking sounds after shut-down and no smell.
As for how much better it is opposed to stock is yet to be determined as the Dyno is not available at present, working on that!
So far I am impressed with this simple improvement in its simplicity and cost ratio, okay it involves removing the Head unlike a Cam swap but it is not a hard job.
Fitted a new Header pipe to my old Lextek muffler, a short joiner has the broad band O2 sensor for my AFR Meter and will at some stage be removed so perhaps a different muffler at some stage.
This header is part of a Meteor complete system, I may have been better off with a the Hitchcock's pipe but freight etc would make that pricey
This header cost 200 of my bucks delivered.
Sounds good and goes good.
This header is part of a Meteor complete system, I may have been better off with a the Hitchcock's pipe but freight etc would make that pricey
This header cost 200 of my bucks delivered.
Sounds good and goes good.
Delkevic header and 550mm Bull nose muffler, sound is AWESOME
Will look even better when the centre section is removed( it holds the Wide band O2 sensor).
As the New Dyno is still out of action I have booked a run next Monday on the Dyno I tested the Himalayan on.
Stock Himalayan produced 22RWHP and soon enough I shall see what a J with 411cc does on the same Dyno.
I doubt it will show the same HP but the Torque output could be interesting.
On a side note I went for a short ride on my 443cc, it feels like a Hyabusa compared to the Bullet!
With a tank of 91 Ron I went to the dyno on 10deg C morning. Bike has done 4000kms so should be run in.
Same dyno and format as my Himalayans were tested on.
Stock Himalayan produced 3HP (SAE) more than the 411 J.
So it's not a wheelie machine but shows good torque and top speed, albeit without wind!.
Due to this bike not having a Tachometer ( might have to address that now) the graph could be out a bit as I had to guess the rev limiter at 6800rpm.
Same dyno and format as my Himalayans were tested on.
Stock Himalayan produced 3HP (SAE) more than the 411 J.
So it's not a wheelie machine but shows good torque and top speed, albeit without wind!.
Due to this bike not having a Tachometer ( might have to address that now) the graph could be out a bit as I had to guess the rev limiter at 6800rpm.
For the dyno illiterate can you explain the lines?
e.g. the speed line blue is 122 (believable) but orange touches 145 kmh (sci fi)
isn't the j-engine supposed to be so much better with the cam shaft mechanism and the funny head shape and whatnot??
e.g. the speed line blue is 122 (believable) but orange touches 145 kmh (sci fi)
isn't the j-engine supposed to be so much better with the cam shaft mechanism and the funny head shape and whatnot??
It's not pushing the front wheel or itself plus rider through the air but that's the speed of the back wheel.
120.8 and 139kph.
Just figures and all a guess as the calibration required a Tachometer.
I guessed 6800rpm as a cut off point, what is the rev limiter?
Look at the torque from the last Himalayan 411 plus Cam.
Compares well with this,
It's all about the Torque
120.8 and 139kph.
Just figures and all a guess as the calibration required a Tachometer.
I guessed 6800rpm as a cut off point, what is the rev limiter?
Look at the torque from the last Himalayan 411 plus Cam.
Compares well with this,
It's all about the Torque
how do you get to these 2 values? different gears?
Had to take a step back, snorkel replaced, OEM header and Muffler with decat, FX set at 10 and it runs.
Idle is low, I had to open the butterfly a bit to compensate.
Runs a bit lean at cruise and makes a fair bit of noise on deceleration but as this build was not timed (because I have no side cover gaskets) I can't be sure if its a success yet.
I will persist a bit longer before fitting the PT.
Idle is low, I had to open the butterfly a bit to compensate.
Runs a bit lean at cruise and makes a fair bit of noise on deceleration but as this build was not timed (because I have no side cover gaskets) I can't be sure if its a success yet.
I will persist a bit longer before fitting the PT.
Orange still looks very Red 
I fitted the PT4, just!
Where do they expect this unit to go?
Managed to get it all in behind the right hand side cover, Bullet has enough space if the relays are repositioned ( jammed in and cable tied) I imagine a Classic has less space so would be a pita.
Had to remove the relay bracket.
Access the usb( printer ) port is limited.
I fitted the PT4, just!
Where do they expect this unit to go?
Managed to get it all in behind the right hand side cover, Bullet has enough space if the relays are repositioned ( jammed in and cable tied) I imagine a Classic has less space so would be a pita.
Had to remove the relay bracket.
Access the usb( printer ) port is limited.
